Tourists crowd Montmartre, visiting the enormous basilica of Sacré Coeur and retracing the steps of such of artists as Picasso and Van Gogh. But despite the crowds, Montmartre retains much of its age-old charm and its winding maze of sloping cobbled streets, steep staircases and ivy-clad houses give it a character unlike any other part of Paris. Accommodation ranges from modern studios to spacious apartments. Some house here have gardens. Further north is the lively and more affordable area around the rue de Poteau market, though it’s less convenient than the pretty (but more touristy) Abbesses neighbourhood. Montmatre has a lively arts scene, with plenty of galleries, cinemas and live music venues, and an amazing array of restaurants, bars and specialist food shops.