From the Sentier neighbourhood to the Forum des Halles, the cobbled, often pedestrianised streets of Montorgueil radiate from its eponymous central thoroughfare. The last bastion of the eateries that made the legendary reputation of the Paris foodhalls (Les Halles), this area oozes charm. Some shops, like the Stohrer bakery, have been around since the 18th century. Traditional charcuterie shops, fishmongers, butchers, cheesemongers, cake shops, bakeries, grocers and florists all sell their excellent wares. It is without question the best permanent market in Paris. All around, trendy bars and restaurants offer welcoming terraces and good food. Take a stroll with your eyes looking skyward in the side streets and you’ll stumble across the Place du Caire, the “court of miracles” immortalised by Victor Hugo in Notre Dame de Paris, and a stunning Egyptian façade. Here, more than anywhere else, the buildings’ pediments tell the story of Paris.